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From Provence to the Pacific

In this newsletter I will post some of my latest newspaper columns, filled with culinary tidbits, foodie history and recipes of the season. I welcome all your comments!

‘TARTE A L’ONION’

On a recent visit to the South of France I came across a baker in our local farmer’s market wholes piles of fragrant olive bread and baguettes lured me to his stand. He also sold ‘Pissaladiere’ (onion tart) by the slice. It was still warm, the aroma redolent of buttery onions. It looked irresistible. Temptation gave way to the first mouth-watering bite – luscious, soft, caramelized onions atop a delicate short-crust pastry.

One of the first dishes my mother taught me to make was this tart. It is a specialty from Nice. The name is derived from the condiment Pissalat, (made up of an anchovy puree and spiced with thyme, bay leaves, cloves and olive oil,) which traditionally covers the onion layer of the tart. Outside Nice one often sees a latticework of anchovy filets covering the tart. I like to dot mine with a lot of black Nicois olives. The anchovies are optional. It is delicious served with a fresh green salad. A perfect Spring lunch.

This recipe will serve 8 people for a large tart or 6 – 8 people for individual tarts.

short crust pastry

9oz unbleached all purpose flour - sifted

5 ½ oz slightly softened butter – cut up into small pieces.

1 large egg

1 teaspoon cold milk (if needed)

Pinch of salt

• Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
• Butter either a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom or each of the individual molds.
• Prepare pastry (I have listed two methods)

Traditional method

• In a large ceramic or metal bowl place all the sifted flour. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the whole egg and all the butter and the pinch of salt.
• Using the tips of your fingers slowly incorporate all the ingredients drawing the flour from the outside of the bowl towards the center. Once incorporated the ingredients should resemble coarse breadcrumbs.
• Using your whole hand and the palm of your hand bring the dough together to form a ball. If the dough seems a little dry add a touch of the milk – using as little as possible. The dough should be smooth but not too tacky to the touch.
• Wrap up the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it until ready to use. You can make the dough ahead of time and leave in the fridge. You will need to remove from the fridge approximately 20 minutes before using it.

Food processor Method

• Place all the ingredients in the bowl of the food processor fitted with a metal blade.
• Use repeated pulses until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.
• Add a little of the milk if necessary if the dough seems too dry. Use longer pulses until the dough has formed a ball. The texture of the dough made in the food processor is different to that made by hand. It will look smoother and be slightly tackier to the touch.
• Wrap up the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it until ready to use. You can make the dough ahead of time and leave in the fridge. You will need to remove from the fridge approximately 20 minutes before using it.

For the onions:

6-8 large yellow onions (peeled, cut in half and sliced thinly)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Black olives

• In a large heavy saucepan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add all the sliced onions and cook slowly, over medium heat for 30 minutes. The onions should be a light gold colour. Do not brown them. Add salt and pepper to taste. The onions when ready will have an almost creamy texture to them.

Assembling the tart:

• Remove the pastry from the fridge. On a lightly floured board roll out the pastry dough on an even manner to the size of the mold. If you are making individual tarts roll out the pastry and cut out the dough to fit the individual molds.
• Trim the edges of the dough with a sharp knife and then prick the dough in the bottom of the tart pan(s) with the tines of a fork. (This prevents the dough from rising into ungainly bumps whilst it is cooking)
• Pour all of the onion mixture over the dough and spread evenly with the back of a fork or spoon so that the onion mixture forms an even layer over the pastry. Grind some fresh black pepper over the top of the onions
• Place the tart in the center of the oven and bake for 25 – 30 minutes. The pastry should be a golden brown colour and the onions too.
• Remove the tart from its mold and let it cool slightly.
• Dot the onion tart with the black olives.